Kitchen layout and storage: decide these before choosing cabinets

Start with the three work centers

The National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA) treats the cooking surface, the cleanup/prep sink and the refrigerator as the three primary work centers. Its planning guidelines recommend that the total travel distance between them be no more than 26 feet, with no single leg shorter than 4 feet or longer than 9 feet, and that no leg cut through an island or peninsula by more than 12 inches.

These are recommendations for good planning, not legal requirements. Local building codes may also apply, especially to ventilation, electrical outlets and clearances around appliances.

Aisles and walkways

In a house kitchen opened to the family room, the walkway past an island is often where these numbers are tested. Measure the space you actually have before falling for an island that leaves a 34-inch aisle.

Landing and prep space

• Next to the sink: NKBA recommends at least 24 inches of landing area on one side and at least 18 inches on the other.
• Primary prep area: a continuous stretch of counter at least 36 inches wide and 24 inches deep, immediately next to a sink.
• Dishwasher: within 36 inches of the cleanup/prep sink, so dishes move in one step.
• Refrigerator and cooktop: landing space beside or across from them, so hot pans and groceries have somewhere to go.

Plan storage by use, not by cabinet count

List what you store and where it is used, then assign zones. This is the step that turns a cabinet catalog into a plan.

Drawers in base cabinets usually make lower storage easier to reach than shelves behind doors. Tall pantry cabinets add a lot of storage per foot of wall, which matters in narrow two-family house kitchens.

Island or peninsula: a decision, not a default

• Check the aisle on every side of the island against the widths above.
• Decide what the island does: prep, cleanup (with a sink), seating, storage or all of them.
• For seating, NKBA recommends 24 inches of width per diner, with knee space depending on counter height: 18 inches deep at a 30-inch table, 15 inches at a 36-inch counter and 12 inches at a 42-inch counter.
• A sink or cooktop in the island means plumbing, venting or electrical work in the floor. That affects cost and possibly permits.

Cabinet decisions that follow the layout

Once the layout and storage zones are settled, the cabinet decisions get easier to frame. Three questions come up in almost every kitchen: which product tier, which box construction, and when the cabinet order has to be final relative to countertops and appliances.

Tier names are not a regulated standard, and lines from different makers draw the boundaries differently. Ask each supplier what their line allows: available widths, depth and height modifications, finish options and how changes after ordering are handled. The Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA) runs a separate certification program that tests cabinet structure, door and drawer operation and finish; certification is a quality mark you can ask about, not a tier.

Framed or frameless. A KCMA guide describes framed cabinets as having a solid wood face frame attached to the front of the box, and frameless (European-style) cabinets as eliminating the face frame. Framed boxes can take partial-overlay, full-overlay or inset doors; frameless boxes are generally full overlay. Without a center stile or face-frame rail, frameless boxes give more open access for wide drawers and pull-outs, while the same guide notes they need more precise installation because there is no frame to hide inconsistencies. Neither is presented here as stronger or better; the choice affects door style, interior access and how forgiving the installation is.

Sequencing with countertops and appliances. Cabinet sizes depend on the appliances they surround, and countertops depend on the cabinets. Cambria's installation FAQ, for example, says cabinets must be permanently installed and in the same plane before final countertop measurement, and that the sink, faucet fixtures and appliances should be on site at that point. Other countertop suppliers set their own requirements. See choosing a kitchen countertop.

1. Choose appliances, or at least confirm their specification sheets, before the cabinet order is final, so openings, panels and clearances are planned around the actual models.
2. Choose the sink and faucet before the sink base and countertop are finalized.
3. Expect the cabinet order, then cabinet installation, then countertop measurement, and ask each supplier what they need on site before their step.
4. Ask for any lead time in writing with the date it was given; this guide does not state typical lead times.

Questions to settle before you order

1. Who cooks, and how often do two people work at once?
2. Where will the trash and recycling live?
3. Which small appliances stay on the counter and which get a cabinet?
4. Does anyone need lower counters or easier reach?
5. Will the layout move the sink, range or refrigerator, and what does that mean for plumbing, gas and permits? See what changes the cost of a kitchen remodel.